A visit to the iconic house situated in the Gulf of Baratti

As you stroll through the Mediterranean scrub in the Gulf of Baratti, setting off from Demos towards Pozzino beach, you cannot fail to notice two curious buildings. The first is immense, made of concrete and with sinuous shapes. The second is made of wood and has a hexagonal shape. Both buildings were designed in the 1960s by the same architect and had been in a state of neglect for many years. To me, they were simply curious structures that the vegetation was gradually reclaiming, and I’d never taken any interest in their history. That was until a few days ago, when I managed to book a guided tour of Casa Dinosauro, organised by the new owners, who in recent years have devoted themselves to restoration and research to reconstruct not only the house but also the history of such a fascinating project.

‘The things that work best are the ones nobody ever thinks of’

Vittorio Giorgini

A ‘love story’ born and nurtured alongside the house, which goes far beyond mere descriptions of an ‘iconic house’ – and one I invite you to hear told directly by the owners themselves. Friendship, passion and love for the local area laid the foundations for this project and also nearly led to its abandonment.

A project ‘born by chance and almost as a game’ – an architectural and friendly challenge between the Florentine architect Vittorio Giorgini and his friend and financier Salvatore Saldarini. The house was built using iron mesh and concrete, protected by jute sacks to allow it to dry slowly whilst retaining its elasticity. A key feature of the house is its ability to adapt to stress and weight by flexing and conforming to it: it is therefore a unique structure of its kind, considered the first example of isoelastic architecture and rightly included in the ‘Icon Houses’ circuit.

The curved and sinuous lines of the ‘Dinosaur’ are reflected inside the house, where there is a sense of peace and well-being. White takes centre stage; the walls are enveloping and the linen curtains are held up by poles collected on the beach. It is a unique building, with a stunning view of the sea (now partially obscured by trees), which reveals all its gentle charm inside. One feature that really struck me was the use of stones, shells and shards of glass to decorate some of the interior passages of the ‘dinosaur’. It is a living structure that slowly reveals itself to the observer. You’ll find a beautiful description of the house and the visit in this article.

‘After a certain period of time, this house was consigned to the pantheon of “curiosities” and kitsch, misinterpreted as informal, organic, sculptural or something else – damn the critics!

It was never seen for what it actually was: an endeavour entirely unrelated to these definitions, an attempt to understand a system of construction, with all the limitations arising from a lack of knowledge and experience in the field. For me, it was nothing more than the beginning of the work…’

Vittorio Giorgini

The passion that drives Luca – the owner – and his wife Lara leads them to organise regular free tours of the property, such as the one I was lucky enough to take part in: for further information, we recommend writing to info@casadinosaurobaratti.com or visiting the website www.casadinosaurobaratti.com, which is full of interesting facts and photos of the property, and the Facebook page @casadinosaurobaratti, where new available dates are announced as they become available.

The tour concluded with an aperitif from Tenuta Poggiorosso, served with bread and olive oil, and a group toast held around a large circular concrete table in front of the house, with an enchanting view of the sea at Baratti.

Sharing the history and beauty of a place lovingly preserved reminds us how culture, friendship and the desire to innovate can inspire people to create great projects that time may transform but cannot erase. I am delighted to know that Casa Dinosauro has now been given a new lease of life, and I would like to thank the owners once again for taking the time to share such a wonderful story of ingenuity and innovation.